Vienna is a known as a baroque city, even though the city has a history dating back before the common era, and a gothic cathedral that serves as the symbol of the city. Eighteenth-Century Hapsburg wealth and power transformed the city into a cultural center, from the ring streets to the Hofburg consolidation to Schönbrunn to the many monuments and other churches. There is today an odd juxtaposition of modern glass and steel and older buildings that give the city it's unique flavor.
Within the many inner city buildings, the first items that come to mind are the many coffee and ice cream shops. The Viennese are famous for their coffee, but it was thanks to the Turks (Ottoman soldiers) who, when General Sobieski attacked their encampment, left their coffee reserves as they retreated from their siege attempt. Coffee was known as the "Turkish drink," and the Viennese embraced it, then turned the appreciation of it into a sublime art. From small and large "brauner" to espresso and cappuccino, along with the presence of multiple cafés on every block (including the recent American import, Starbucks), coffee is everywhere. Knowing this history, I am still always surprised at how many coffee shops there are.
The ubiquitous ice cream shops nearly match the number of coffee houses, especially in warmer weather. From the small kiosks, café settings, and even the grand Zanoni and Zanoni location, it is apparent that the Viennese, and their guests, like ice cream. There is always a crowd if people at these locations when they are open. The selection ranges from simple sugar cones with a large scoop to elaborate ice cream, fruit, nut, and syrup concoctions that can leave you jittery from an excess of sugar in your system, especially if you dare to pair one with a coffee.
As we study the manifestations of the Hapsburg Empire in Vienna, I realized that these two luxuries (coffee and ice cream) are vestiges of the royal lifestyle and stand as metaphors for the the riches and decadent lives of the royal families. When in Vienna, I can treat myself to delicious coffee concoctions served in tiny cups, but which fulfill even though they are quite small. I am able to select ice cream from a menu with pictures of the more elaborate creations. Did the royals drink coffee and eat ice cream? The Silver Collection museum at the Hofburg presented the preferred simple white china sets with coffee service (among other porcelain items for dining room, kitchen, bath and bedroom) as well as the most beautiful tin forms in fruit and small animal shapes used to freeze custards and creams. Products from these forms could have rivaled the Zanoni creations.
As i generalized these thoughts, I also realized that Vienna is a city with a highly developed aesthetic, and that it was a result of their history if being influenced by the gentle mannerisms and refined behavior of the former Hapsburg court. This realization helped me better understand why Sisi had to learn to always be impeccably dressed, why elaborate china, glass and silver settings were needed even at the most intimate of family meals, why Austrians move in a restrained physical manner and have conversations in public only in the most quiet and reserved manner, and even why Austrians are still known to greet women sometimes with a "Küss die Hand."
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
No comments:
Post a Comment